This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Find out more. Click here to accept

Installation

IMPORTANT:

Necessary tools:

traditional or laser level
pencil
paintbrush
scissors
4mm dented trowel
measure
1

From the top of the surface we measure two horizontal lines in the distance calculated with formula:
4 x width of tile used + 3 x joint 10-12 mm.

Determination of the individual levels of tile gluing can be done with the help of a masonry cord, a traditional leveler or a laser level
2

Apply IZOFLEX-SK glue with 4 x 4 mm toothed trowel, preparing the surface for 4 rows of tiles at the same time.

The surface area covered by the adhesive should be adjusted to the air temperature so as not to allow it to dry. The adhesive should be fresh and moist. If the glue dries too fast, we can use a spray to dampen the surface of the glue. We can also spray a surface of the glue in the bucket.
3

We start the gluing from the top of the wall, first gluing the corners. We cut the tiles, we apply to each other "on contact", and the resulting gap is complemented by a special mass. Thanks to that, the work is fast and the corner looks like a real brick.

The tiles are much more comfortable to cut than fold. The tiles are made almost entirely of natural materials, not of "rubber", and these have a limited stretch. By cutting the tiles we can finish one wall completely and then return to the second surface. In case of bending, we have glue immediately on both surfaces and you need to remove it from one of them before it dries and then reapply. And it takes a lot of time.
When the adhesive is dry, add the adhesive to the substrate after the adhesive is dry (the material from which the tile is made).
We suggest bending to the interior where the details are very important and the pace of work may be smaller.
4

Set tiles according to the established bonding of bricks on wet glue, evenly pressing, with proper joints (10-12mm)

Ensure that the entire surface of the tile adheres well to the glued wall so that there is no void beneath it.
5

IZOFLEX tiles are cut to size with scissors or cut from the bottom with a knife and broken.

6

Additional bonding of the tiles is superfluous, just glue in the joint smoothed with a moist (but not wet) brush (10 mm)

Remember that the smoothed adhesive tightly covers the edges of the tiles so that no water gets in.
7

When the glue is dry, the crevices formed at the corners of the gap are complemented by a special, dedicated mass (the same material is made of tiles)